A Blog on the Road (to Monasteries)

As I've been on the road a couple days now, I figured I'd let people know how my wonderful adventure's been going.  First, I'll lead up to it with the last few days here in Ch'ik'aani:

On the last day of school, the younger grades had a New Year's party and the older grades didn't have lessons (i.e., didn't have classes, in American English--the small differences in American and British English/Georgian (which uses transliterations of a few of the involved words) can cause a little confusion until you get used to the local usage--at least, for an American like myself), so I had plenty of time to take care of a few last things in the computer lab before (at least, potentially) losing my computer access for a month.  The weekend went well, and on Tuesday morning I headed to Tbilisi to begin my monastic pilgrimmage, if it can be thus called.  It was surprisingly warm and sunny (though also windy) in Tbilisi, and to start out, I wanted to check the Patriarchate's ecclesiastical supply stores--I found out from Mama Davit where they were (nicely, all on one street).  Assuming I wouldn't have time to go to Betania (the first monastery on my list) until the next day, I was somewhat wehimsical and carefree as to my path, and went to as many churches as I could along the way (it's not difficult to find a lot of opportunities for this in Georgia).  (By the way, it turns out the church at which you can see the woman prostrating herself in the middle of the night in my first photojournal entry is actually Sioni Cathedral (that is, Zion Cathedral, of course) (obviously no longer the episcopal see church of Tbilisi, at least since Sameba was consecrated, if not before then).)  When I finally got to Leselidze, the street with all the ecclesiastical supply shops (it's near the glass bridge on the West bank, for anyone who wants to know), I was surprised by how many there actually were.  It took me a good while to look through them all.  (I was doing this to see if I could, reasonably within my budget, get anything that might be useful for any of the churches or monasteries I know in America--alas, most of it was (as expected) a good bit out of my price range.  On the other hand, everything was beautiful, and a good bit cheaper than you'd probably find in the states--if any of my reaers to whom this applies knows of anything they want/need and wants to use me as an intermediate to get it, just let me know--from handpainted Georgian icons, priest or stavrophore/schema crosses, gorgeous vestments of all types, all the way up to mitres and full-size iconographic crucifixes for use in the Church (though don't ask me to transport that last example)--you name it, they've probably got it.)  After that, seeking a quiet place to do some prayers (i.e., not one of the churches in the middle of the city, crowded with pilgrims going in and out), I decided to see if I could get up to a church I saw up on a hill.  Turns out, it was quite far up, this hill, and perhaps couldn't be called part of Tbilisi at all (eventually the road cuts off to a footpath/trail).  It also turns out it was a monastery--holy Transfiguration Monastery--and a perfect place to do my prayers (the Church itself was unlocked, so, since I didn't see anyone I could ask, I simply went into the empty sanctuary and began).

The Church was quite beautiful, and very Georgian in its iconography, iconostasis, and general structure (truly Georgian-style churches have quite a different feel than that of a Russian or Greek church, having that characteristic peculiar Georgian quality that seems to pervade all things traditionally Georgian).  As I later learned, the monastery is only about ten years old.  Eventually, a novice came in, and as he happened to speak English quite well, we spoke for a while.  At 7:00, they had a Vigil, but through there are about 12 people staying at the monastery (three monks, three heiromonks, and otherwise guests and students of a small school of some sort (I don't think it was a seminary proper) which is either attached to, or at least very close to, the monastery itself), because of illness, abscences, and infirmities, it was just me, the aforementioned novice, and his spiritual father, who are both visitors from a smaller monastery, staying to study at the school.  This heiromonk also knew some English, and we ended up doing some parts of the service in Georgian, and some in English--a first for me in Georgia.

After Vigil, the aforementioned priest invited me to his cell, and we talked for a while before I went back to prepare for a midnight liturgy there.  The liturgy consisted of me, this novice,a guest at the monastery (who served in a sticherion in the altar and chanted), a heiromonk, and me.  It was absolutely wonderful.  Glory to God for all things!  I had no plan, really, for what I was doing, yet He in His infinite Knowledge, Love, and Mercy, brought me to a wonderful little monastery I would otherwise not have even known existed, and even granted me to end the day (or, more properly, begin the new day, in Orthodox reconing of the day's beginning at sunset) by partaking of His Very Body and Precious Blood!  Glory to God, who works in ways past human understanding.

After Liturgy, I was given a blessing to spend the night at the monastery.  In the morning, I headed off for the marshutka station to see which I needed to get me to Betania.  This wild goose chase of being redirected from station to station lasted four or five hours.  Eventually, I called my friend Giorgi in the hopes that he would know how I could get there.  He instead came and picked me up, preceeded to call his manager and get the day off, and announced that he was taking me to Betania that very day.  Georgians really are a rare people, let me tell you that.  Long story short, because of weather, we instead went to a different monastery in a car belonging to his cousin (a priest, I might add), and accompanied by him.  It is dedicated to the Iveron ("Iberia") Icon of the Theotokos, and also had a wonderful and warm brotherhood--and is also one I would have never known existed if I was following my own plan for this trip.  God seems to have his own plan for my travels, which is great--He knows which monasteries will be better places for me to stay.  When we don't constantly, actively try to impose our own wills, but try a little to live in obedience to the will of our loving neighbors (and simply of God Himself, as much as we can discern It), His Will is made manifest in ways most obvious.

Anyway, we had Vigil and then some tea, before a short devotional service for the welfare of Georgia, or the Georgian Church, as best I could discern it to be, before heading off to our cells for the night.  As there's a 6:00 Liturgy tomorrow morning, I suppose I should probably finish up writing.  Overall, I can simply say, my journey had been going miraculously well so far.

In Christ,

Teopile/Theophilos Porter

A Few Last Pictures

Hello, all.

I have been asked to share some pictures of the house at which, and family with which, I am living here in Georgia.  I took a few pictures to that extent today, and thought I'd share them for all to see.  Unfortunately, my host mother was not available when I was taking them, so you'll have to wait until later to see her, I guess.  Enjoy!

The house, as seen from the street.

The front door, as from just inside the gate.

The side of the house, from the same place.

The inside of the house, just after entering the front door.  My room is out of sight on the right, and my host sister's is out of sight on the left.  My host brother's room is on the left, and a study room on the right, before the bath room (I don't say "bathroom," but "bath room," because in American English this usually includes a toilet, whereas this is a room with a sink and an adjoining room with a tub).  The doors straight ahead lead into the living room, where the family spends most of its time (it's the only room with a woodstove).

My host brother, Lasha.

Looking left from the doors previously mentioned, the living room.

From the side of the living room the last picture was of, the rest of it.  The doorframe you can see on the left before the woodstove goes to the balcony outside, while the door you can see with come tape over broken glass goes into the kitchen.  The table you see here is where we eat, and we've been eating in this room since winter set on (as opposed to on the balcony).  Note the van seats on the left and right.  They essentially are used as ledges to put stuff on.

My host father, sister, and brother.  This was taken on our balcony.

The steps up to the balcony and the recessed floor near the basement.  Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of the basement (we mostly just store food stuffs there) and the literal pigsty (and cowsty) ahead.

The steps up to the balcony.

My host uncle's dog.

Well, that's about it, I guess.  I probably won't be putting up anything else until after the winter break.  I will probably have a lot to write then, though, so hopefully that makes up for it.

In Christ,

Teopile/Theophilos Porter

My New Computer Situation

Note:  this blog is primarily for people who would be in the situation to Skype with me, but could also be useful as an example for new volunteers in Georgia of some of the computer difficulties in the villages, if you don't bring your own computer and internet capabilities.

Sometimes language barriers can be quite troublesome.  I'd been starting to get a sense at school that using the computers late was not something particularly looked upon fondly by those in charge, but because of the language barrier, mixed with a little Georgian hospitality, I was not able to actually substantiate this thought until today.  In the past week, they have been mentioning something about being afraid people would steal the computers, but this made no sense to me, since the room was locked until I got there (the night guard would have a key), and was again locked right after I left.  Apparently, however, usually the director is the only one with a key, and she had to (at least, as best I understand it, which is somewhat tentative) leave it in the night guard's office until he got there on these days--which seems to be what they're worried about, having a key unattended.

Now, I should here note that they have reason to worry a bit--they once had thieves cut a hole in the roof and ceiling of the computer lab and steal a few computers through it.  Unfortunately, it is either not possible or not permitted to make a copy of the key, so their solution is that, since the computer lab is normally only open until 5:00, Monday to Friday, the director will come one day a week when I need to use Skype in the evening, and stay until I'm done--which is really quite horrible, because it means that if I ever want to Skype with anyone in America (at least, with anyone who doesn't want to get up at four in the morning), I have to horribly inconvenience her in the process.  I would forego Skype altogether, but it's really a much better medium than any other that I have for confessions with my priest in America--I don't know what I'll end up doing.  Mostly, however, this means I will not generally be available to Skype, and when I can, I'm going to limit it to what's really necessary.  Essentially, I've lost all recreational Skype access.  So, if you want to get ahold of me, email's really the best bet now.

[I must note, after it having been a couple months, that this has not actually been the case.  For whatever reason, things seem to have worked out well, and it's generally no problem if I need to use the computers after 5:00; I ask the school director (principal), and makes sure the key is left with the night watchman.  I have not had it happen even once as they described here, that someone would have to come, out of their way, to open the doors and be here while I work.  I don't know why everything resolved itself so easily (it's possible I misunderstood what they were saying earlier, but I asked a few different times and ways to make sure I understood the situation correctly), but whatever reason it might be, glory to God that he gave me the trial to test my patience and my love of His will over my own, and glory to Him that He resolved it easily, that I may work and confess with priest in America without causing such an inconvenience to anyone. I just thought I should let you all know how things turned out.]

In Christ,

Teopile/Theophilos Porter

A Few Pictures and the Feast of Nek'resoba!

I figured I would share what happenned yesterday, since in my last blog I mentioned the feast of St. Abibus Nek'resshi.  Since I took a couple pictures (only a couple, sadly; I hoped to be able to find more of the event itself online, but I haven't had much luck so far), and wanted to share them now, I figured first I would show the pictures I've taken since my last photo-post and now as well.

November 23:

 Unfortunately, the camera focused on my window; this was taken in the morning, before school, out my window to show a couple of the ox and cow-herders at work

November 24:

 Some children out playing in the...snow, snow snow snow SNOW!!! (think Irving Berlin).

November 25:

November 26:

 The small garden next to our main yard, and the rest of the view, from the balcony.

November 29:

 The mountains, as viewed from our yard.  Note the banana trees (cut for winter) with snow on them, as I mentioned in my "Have you ever..." blog entry.

November 30:

 The mountains at sunset.

December 12:

So in the morning, Fr. Davit came and picked me up, and to my surprise (though it would explain why we started out so early (7AM; it was still dark and cold)), we went first to the monastery (convent) he serves and held Liturgy.  After that, we went to Q'vareli, and joined the processional, which couldn't have started off much before we got there (as they were only perhaps half the way out of Q'vareli from the Church) as it went off toward Nek'resi:

 The processional, as seen from ahead.

The processional, as seen from near the very front.  For the non-Orthodx, the banners have icons on them.  Fr. Davit is on the right, and another very wonderful priest, whose name I unfortunately cannot recall, is on the left with the cross.  Behind me is a large reliquary being carried by four men.

We walked there, the choir behind chanting, until we got to Nek'resi.  Along the way, I met someone who speaks English and learned more about St. Abibus' life.  I also found out that, unlike what I wrote a couple days ago, we were not going all the way up to the top (though they have done it before in other processionals) because the Church dedicated to St. Abibus is at the bottom of this monastery-on-a-hill.  It's pretty awesome to see as many people in processional as there were.

Once we got there, we found that three bishops were there to serve (one was Metropolitan Sergi, the other two, judging by their pectoral adornment, were normal bishops), and there were a ton of priests and monks.  Unfortunately, as some of the priests do not always wear their pectoral crosses, it can sometimes be difficult to tell who's a priest and who's a monk.  Anyway, the liturgy there was good, though a bit difficult to hear (except for the choir, which was quite large and loud) because there were so many people between the clergy and where I was standing.  We did it all outside the small church, because of its size, except for the deacon, who went in and out quite a few times to cense, and when the priests likewise needed to go behind the altar.  Afterwards, we venerated the relics from the reliquary we brought, and after that went to a small cultural festival they arranged (i.e., Georgian polyphonic singing, churchkhela, et cetera) before going into the restoraunt for a supra.  Many of the priests and monks went instead to the trapeza for a meal (I was among them, taken under wing by Mama Davit) before coming out to receive blessings from the bishops before they left (luckily, I was able to receive a blessing from them as well--or at least, from the metropolitan and one of the other bishops), and then continue in the supra that had been going on in the resauraunt.  I came back to home after it all (by car) overstuffed and quite tired, but happy with a day well spent.

Well, today's been a normal day at school--other than showing up in my fifth grade class to find that they had all gone home for the day (probably a teacher got mixed up on the schedule and excused them a period early).  I probably won't blog again until near the Christmas break, unless something exciting comes up, but I will try to send off one blog before I leave, just letting everyone know about any last updates.  Hope you enjoyed the pictures!

In Christ,

Teopile/Theophilos Porter

An Update

It's been quite a while since I posted anything, so I figured I'd better try and come up with something to write.  Not much has changed here.  I've been working on a side-by-side Georgian-English horologion (or at least Vigil book, as that's mostly all the information I have to draw from in the Georgian), and have finished the Liturgy portion, though I'll need to have some basic instructions translated into Georgian and have the Georgian half thoroughly proofed for typing errors.  I've been spending a lot of time at the school computer compiling and typing it, but I think it's worth it.  Perhaps when I'm done I can see if someone might be interested in printing it, for the the English-speaking Orthodox in Georgian and vice-versa.

Today is the first Sunday that I haven't been invited to a supra after Church, or at least, the first one in a very long time.  When I do have spare time here (reasonably often, if I'm not working really late at school or something) I end up reading a lot, and am subsequently going through my stash of books here (reasonably large) pretty quickly.  It's kind of nice to have the time to read those books I've been meaning to get around to--I'm sure everyone has them, but now I've finally got the time.  Unfortunately, I'm going through them a little too quickly; but if need be I can ask for a few books I had to leave at home (due to wieght constraints in travel) that would take a bit longer for me to get through.

Tomorrow is the feast day of Heiromartyr Abibus, bishop of Nek'resi and one of the Assyrian fathers, and thus is a big feast in the nearby monastery there (I think this saint might be their patron, or perhaps that of the monastery church, but I'm not completely sure).  We're going to Q'vareli, then walking (it's sounds like a full processional) to Nek'resi, about 2 or 2.5 miles away--but with the very end being up a very steep road.  Nonetheless, I'm really looking forward to it.  Mama Davit also grabbed me after Church today and had be try on a sticharion--apparently I am going to be chanting with the choir (as before) and serving in the altar at the necessary times.  This could be interesting since I've only served in tha altar a few times, for small parts of services, and in the Greek tradition (which in the smaller aspects of some of its outward liturgical traditions can vary a good bit from those of the Slavic Churches).  The Georgians can also be like the Russians in their strict adherence to certain of the physical liturgical traditions--not that this is bad, but it could certainly make it a bit more difficult for me.  Meh; I'm sure I'll get the hang of it all reasonably quickly.

The time's going by very quickly; it's only a couple weeks, and I'll be heading off to start my tour of Georgia's monasteries (or as many as I can reasonably get to, I should say), which will be much (or all) of my break--depending on how long it ends up taking.  I'd rather spend any remaining time I have in monasteries instead of simply being idle at home and going through all of my books--though I could perhaps look  into a way of working on this horologion project at school during the break, if I come back much earlier than I expected.  (A quick note to those who know me personally:  I won't be on Skype or email (or blogging) much, if at all, during this period, because of the obvious restrictions of travel.)

Otherwise, I really don't know what else to say.  It's getting colder and colder here, and without the normal, well-heated houses, schools, cars, and everything else we have in the West, I have a new appreciation for those who live in the cold--it's a perpetual, relentless condition you have to be able to put up with, to lesser or greater extent, to do just about anything.  That being said, I don't want to worry you; I'm fine--just very bundled most of the time.

Since I can't think of much else, until next time.

In Christ,

Teopile/Theophilos Porter