Monday, November 7, 2011

Bodbe, Belarussians, TV, and Culture Clash

Well, it seems that yet another week has flown by.  The actual weekdays were pretty much the same--though I can happily note that my co-teachers and I have begun to strike good balances in class with activities to keep students interested, and much more controlled.  On Saturday, I went (with some of the other teachers as well, of course) on the 4th grade's field trip to the convent where St. Nino's relics are kept, and which bears her name (how awesome is that!--the public school's fourth grade field trip is to the monastery; there's something you'd never see in America).  It was very beautiful, and the view from there is stunning--you can see the whole valley of K'akheti extending to the mountains near which I live.  The church itself (dedicated to St. George) was very Western for the most part--and I can just say as an exemplification of why I don't like Western icons that showing Adam and Eve in their nakedness in Paradise in a Western (and thus fully realistic) way is not a good idea for obvious reasons (and because it's misleading; before the Fall, their bodies were subtler, without the heavy coarseness of our present flesh, as the saints say).  After that, we went to Sighnaghi, which is a quite beautiful city (it has perhaps even a better view than Bodbe of the valley) before coming home.

Sunday was likewise good.  I was able to set a time (Sundays after services) with one of the more fluent English speakers to translate the liturgy and other liturgical offices (now that I have purchased some blank notebooks, which I did the previous weekend in Tbilisi) into English (I have a couple copies of the liturgy in English, but I would like to have a side-by-side Georgian-English version for use in Church).  After service I went to a supra held at a friend's small wine factory (and was subsequently given, as a part of the tour, two more bottles of wine to bring to my family--I hope you're prepared to drink a lot when I get home, everybody).  It was an interesting supra, as, for most of it, there was no one who knew any English whatsoever.  For a few moments, however, there was a Georgian woman, Ek'a (for the Georgian version of Katherine--Ek'at'erina, I think), who spoke fluent English--she lives in Ireland and, though a Brit may have been able to spot an accent, I was unsure (until I asked) if she was Georgian or from the Isles.  It was also entertaining when, a bit later, I tried and failed to communicate with some new guests--not because I was speaking English to Georgians, but because I, the American, was speaking Georgian to, as it turns out, Belarussians, who didn't know a lick of Georgian--which I, at least, thought was pretty funny.

Anyway, today has been normal, except for torrential rain (and a little snow in the morning, which I have been told is unseasonally early).  The electricity was out until about an hour and a half ago, and now I am watching Georgian Wheel of Fortune (it's a bit different than that of America:  it's new contestants every puzzle, much less money, it seems to be an hour long, it is much harder (since each puzzle is generally only one word and the Georgian alphabet has 33 characters), and it has fun Georgian quirks--for example, during the last puzzle, they were drinking wine for no apparent reason).  I was surprised to see it, actually, because I hadn't ever seen it on before--and unfortunately, Georgians like to have the TV on a lot, even if no one is watching it, just for background noise.  Between the six or eight channels we get here, they seem to watch Mexican Soap Operas, the occasional way overdone comedy show, the news, the occasional soccer game, a knowledge-based game show with children contestants (around 5-7 grade or so), and a game show (which is actually fairly entertaining) in which two contestants compete in random tasks and knowledge tests.  Now, I would rather not have TV at all, but Georgians (or most of them--my host mother seems to be more like me in my attitude toward the TV) generally thinik it's more comfortable to have on some background noise, and thus turn it on not only for themselves (and usually very loudly if so), but also sometimes to be hospitable to guests (including me, generally, unless I request that the blaring TV no one is watching be turned down so I can hear the person sitting right next to me).  Now this is not always the case--often, if they see that no one is really watching it, and no one can hear one another, they will turn it down--but it will generally stay on even if no one is interested in it; if someone is really watching it, it will generally be somewhere between a nuisance (i.e., loud enough to be distracting regarless of what you're doing) and obnoxious (i.e., loud enough to start to hurt your ears or give you a headache and make it impossible to do anything).  Just a warning for those of you coming to Georgia--hopefully you'll have someone in your family like my host mother, who has the sense to turn it off when no one is watching, and turn it down when it is making it impossible to do anything else in the only warm room in the house (in winter, that is).

It can be very difficult explaining cultural differences, simply because certain things don't always make any sense from  one culture to another.  For example (hypothetically; they're too polite and hospitable, generally, to ask these questions bluntly):  "Why wouldn't you want the TV blaring in the background while you read?"  (I haven't ever said anything on this subject, but if no one else is even in the room, I will often turn the TV down or off, and I think they've noticed.)  "You don't want to watch TV for hours?  Really?"  (Luckily, as I mentioned, some Georgians understand this much better than others--probably in that sense Georgia's not that much different from America.)  "Why don't you eat much for breakfast, and usually only go for the bread, jam, and fruit instead of last night's fresh-slaughtered pig's feet and ears (here I should note that pig skin and pig feet are actually not bad, but certainly not breakfast food, at least for my palate)?"  "Why don't you want to get uncomfortably stuffed to the brim at every meal you eat?"  Even with questions of Orthodoxy, it sometimes takes some explaining, as it can be unfortunately easy in Orthodox countries not to delve too deeply into the Church, trusting in ethnic identity/nationality as giving enough knowledge of the Church (i.e., I'm Georgian, therefore I'm Orthodox; I'm Greek, therefore I'm Orthodox, etc.).  I do not mean to judge anyone by this  statement--forgive me if I do, I'm certainly not one with any ability to see the speck in my brother's eye, considering the giant log in my own--I am simply trying to acknowledge one of the the factual causes of the occasional lack in knowledge.  For example, "Why don't you have fish and alcohol on fast days?" (granted, this might actually be a true difference in the Goergian typicon--but considering the differences (this gives no room for partial-fast days, like the Annunciation and other important feast/fast days), I would be more inclined to belive this is a simply lack of knowledge of fasting rules, and I would rather be safe than sorry--liturgics and the rules governing them are there for a reason).  Or, "What is that weird ring you're wearing?" (while I wear a ring-sized prayer rope, most Georgians, unless they have good knowledge of monasticism, don't know anything about the Jesus Prayer).  Knowledge of liturgics and liturgical prayers also seems to be a bit lacking (there being obvious exceptions, of course), but I suppose it's not necessarily that different from the average lay Orthodox in America--I can easily acknowledge my over-expectations in certain things, coming into Georgia, as an Orthodox country.  I can also recognize under-expectations in many things, however; for example, thier wonderful (although sometime a bit overwhelming) hospitality.  Though one would, of course, hope that more people would wish to delve more deeply into the Church, glory to God for the great things present here in the people and the place--glory to God that all Georgians are, at least, baptized members of the Orthodox Church, and believe in and confess as many of Its Truths as they know!  Obviously, the environment of an Orthodox country really gives great opportunities to those who do want to delve more deeply and fully into the Church.

But anyway, I've babbled for too long about things above my ability to speak properly (namely, this last paragraph).  God forgive me if I have spoken anything inaccurate or have passed judgement on anyone--and my readers, please forgive me if I have have unneccesarily offended anyone or have inaccurately depicted anything about Georgian culture or the Orthodox people here in Georgia.  Hopefully, God has granted me the grace to speak truthfully and give helpful information for any of you Orthodox traveling to Georgia, and for anyone from a Western culture coming to live in Georgia.


In Christ,
Teopile/Theophilos Porter

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Transportation in Georgia

Warning:  this will be a boring and useless post for anyone not going to Georgia.

Transportation in Georgia is, in a word, awesome--at least, from a financial point of view.  The taxis are cheap by American standards--a few hours' walk is around two USD or so--and it can be entertaining having them explain the sights along the way in a mix of English and Georgian (generally a lot of the latter and a tiny bit of the former).  However, all-in-all, I would say that's actually the worst method of transportation unless you need to get to a very specific place very quickly.  The better mode of travel is by marshutka (a Russian-origin word, this is written "marshrutka" in Georgian, but pronounced "marshutka"--I will write it as it is pronounced).  This is basically a full-size van with a bunch of seats (without seatbelts) and often a couple short, loose stools for the mass crowds of people who get on them (often there are also people standing on these crowded vans).  In more remote areas, the marshutkas will have a sign in the window saying which villages they are going to (in Georgian letters only)--in town, they have numbers for different routes, and you'll have to ask a Georgian which route to take to get where you need to go.  You hail these just as you would a cab.  While these can get a bit cramped, they're way more cost-effective than taxis.  In town, you'll pay about 50-80 tetri (100 tetri=1 lari) to get anywhere, and my marshutka ride from Ch'ik'aani to Tbilisi (2 hours' drive) was 8 lari--around $5 US.  By the way, with marshutkas, you pay at the end, and generally do not need exact change (I would recommend exact change with taxis, though).  With taxis or marshutkas, just be cognizant, also, of rush hour in the evening--at any other time, it will get you there in a reasonably timely manner.

Within Tbilisi there is also a metro, which is the best mode of transportation in town if you are going anywhere near one o the other stations or if you are going very far across town (in which case, if the station isn't very close to where you need to go, the metro then a marshutka could still be cheaper (and faster) than a marshutka alone).  It is 2 lari to get a metro card, and then 50 tetri for each time you go into the station (you load these onto your card).  The beauty of it is, on this 50 tetri you can go to any of the stations, because the price, like I said, is just for getting you into the underground station; then the ride itself is free.  So if you go too far, and have to get on the metro going the opposite direction for a bit to get where you needed, no problem--it's all still 50 tetri in total.  A quick note for those who get vertigo and/or are afraid of heights--you're going to want to hold on tight to the railing on the escalator down to the station:  it's steep and it goes fast.

The only other public mode of transportation I can think of is the train, for if you're going long distances--it seems to be well priced (I heard it's about 20 lari for Tbilisi to Batumi, the farthest two stations from each other), but I haven't actually ridden it yet--this December, in all likelihood, I will be using it to do some monastery-hopping.

A note on taxis:  agree on the price beforehand (or better yet, have a Georgian friend do the haggling for you), because Georgians will probably think you, as a Westerner, are both rich and naïve as to fair Georgian pricing.  If nothing else, ask a Georgian friend how much is a reasonable price to get from X to Y by taxi, so you have a ballpark figure.  I've heard that there's also a taxi company that is actually metered, but as I haven't used it (it's quicker and easier to just hail a taxi (they're everywhere in the city), instead of finding the number somehow, calling, waiting for it to get to you--especially if you don't know the Georgian name of where you are--et cetera), I don't know how it's prices would compare to other taxis.  Also, always hail one driving on the street, instead of getting in one idly parked on the side of the road; as one would think, those hailed on the street generally give much cheaper prices.  All the other modes of transportation are set-price.

Also, a quick note on Georgian driving:  it's different.  It's generally faster, the cars drive closer together (side-to-side as well as front-to-back), the lanes painted on the pavement are almost always ignored (and thus two written lanes often equals three driving lanes), and seatbelts are much more likely to be ignored (it can sometimes be insulting to a driver to put on your seatbelt, and marshutkas, except in any seats next to the driver's (some have these seats and some don't), don't have any seatbelts, as I mentioned above).  If, like me, you're used to nice, safe driving, with a seatbelt on at all times, well--get used to not always having the luxury of lower speeds and seatbelts.  I haven't really ever been driven by a truly bad driver (though I've seen a few on the roads), the driving is just more aggressive, i.e., faster, closer, and less according to any sort of rules; things are usually not too horribly bumpy (though they are never really smooth) unless you're really in the back-roots or if a cow walks into the road suddenly and the driver has to brake very suddenly or something like that (maneuvering around the herds of animals in the road isn't uncommon in the country and villages.  Because of these driving habits, if you're in the city as a pedestrian, you will need to be bolder than you're used to--look, and run when it's clear.  Or, if there are two directions going at different times, do what I (and the many Georgians who were my example in this) have done--go over the first direction's lanes when they're clear, and stand on the double lines until the other lanes are clear.  Sounds fun, right?  As long as you're not dumb, you can get by very safely in Tbilisi as a pedestrian, and thus, I would assume, in all the other cities as well (the towns are no problem).  Of course, being a pedestrian really is the best way to see the city, so long as you have the time--and it's a very safe country in terms of crime and things like that; Georgians are over-hospitable, if anything, even to strangers--don't be afraid to get out there and walk around a little!


In Christ,
Teopile/Theophilos Porter

Monday, October 31, 2011

A Less-than-Normal Weekend in Tbilisi

I had an interesting last couple of days.  I managed to make it to Tbilisi by taking the 8:00 AM marshutka out of Ch'ik'aani (it arrives in Tbilisi at 10:00), which came 15 minutes early.  Luckily, my host father saw it coming (whether he just happened to see it or was watching for it, I don't know), because if he didn't, I would have walked out about five minutes later and have never seen it.

I started to feel a tad ill again (I had been feeling ill off-and-on for about a week and a half at this point), but as I was already in Tbilisi, I didn't see that it made much sense to fret about it.  So I called my new friend Giorgi (whom I met at Mama Davit's supra mentioned in my Oct. 24 blog entry), and in the afternoon he came and took me (along with his very pregnant wife Nino, and thus, their soon-to-be-born son Nik'alai or Nik'olai (it may actually be the normal Georgian Nik'alozi after Saint Nicholas, but I could have sworn I heard Giorgi say Nik'alai, and I know he's named after the saint--a variant spelling in Georgian?)) to his church, Bet'lemi.  It is dedicated to Christ's Nativity, and as the name implies, it is modeled on the church at the spot of Christ's birth in Bethlehem.  It even has a re-creation of the spot where, in the original church, Christ was born, complete with the seven lampadas and the silver star over the hole in the marble to the ground--people familiar with the original church should know what I'm talking about.  It was large, fully frescoed, and gorgeous.  In the arches were the feasts of the Church, the Last Judgement, the Ancient of Days, and so forth.  Of course, the Virgin with Child was in the apse and the Pantocrator (with thrones, cherubim, seraphim, and the ring of OT prophets) was in the dome.  And regardless of the impozing size and beauty of Sameba, this beautiful, fully-frescoed church, all told, is perhaps the most beautiful I have ever been in.

Saturday vigil started soon after we got there, and this fairly large church became very well packed.  It was Vespers and Matins followed by Hours--and I can say, they were some of the longest Vespers and Matins I have participated in (outside special feast days and Holy Week, etc.)--though you should temper that statement with the conditions of me understanding little of what was said and feeling very weak and bad from the illness (which had been worsening over the course of the day).  The priest seemed cool.  It was interesting to watch him cense.  First of all, in censing the higher frescoes, he swung the censer so high above his head I thought the ashes were going to fall out.  Second of all, he used more incense that I had ever seen a priest use before.  After censing the iconostasis and before moving on to the rest of the church he had an altar boy add more incense--which was amazing to me because the incense already in the censer was simply billowing into his face as he did so.  The priest would also stop a few more times as he censed to have more added.  The church, which was a bit hazy from incense before the services started, became wonderfully thick with it as the services continued.

Anyway, I only wish I hadn't been so sick, so I could have better appreciated the service.  At this point, I was already considering going to the hospital (having been sick off-and-on for so long, as I mentioned, I began to figure this was not normal adjustment or slight illness), but I decided to wait it out a bit more first.  So, we went to the bank and then back to Giorgi's house for some food.  Unfortunately, my fever returned in the evening, so I decided to call the insurance company.  It turns out that, even though Giorgi and his wife wanted to take me, and even though his wife is a doctor (which proved very useful, especially since she spoke quite good English) and suggested I go to the hospital, according to my policy, they are always required to send an ambulance and have the EMTs evaluate my condition before taking me.

Long story short, we made it to the hospital.  it was less modern that I would have expected from the capital city (and much smaller than I expected, though that could be because of how they break up the hospital buildings into different specialities and diagnoses), but clean.  The only thing I found less hygienic than I would have liked was the bathroom:  you had to bring your own toilet paper, and the used toilet paper went in the trash, not the toilet.  I've seen this other places, too, but only in very remote places out in the village or country.  I mean, come on--a hospital should be more hygienic, and I would think that in Tbilisi you could get a modern bathroom (like those I've seen all over other places in the city).  Unfortunately, the Georgians in the hospital worry no less than those outside it, and they made me wait for hours while they pumped 1500mL or 2000mL of a "ringer's injection" (i.e., fluid to replace that which I had lost in my illness) into me, while I simply needed to (and because of this, could not) sleep.  The heart of Georgian worrying is in the right place, generally, but sometimes the effect is quite counter-productive to the intent.  I really just went to the hospital to get some lab-work done, to see why I've been sick off-and-on for so long.  I can rehydrate myself anywhere.

Anyway, they let me out on Sunday (though they would have rather kept me longer), but nowhere near early enough to go to morning services.  It's okay, I suppose--I had enough time to read three more chapters of my Genesis book (i.e., Genesis, Creation and Early Man by Heiromonk Seraphim of Platina--the chapters are generally not particularly short).  I picked up a few things in town and had time to go to Giorgi's for a quick bite before getting on the marshutka back home.

So, as my title suggested, I had a less-than-normal weekend--but, though I didn't get everything done that I wanted to, I got everything I needed to done, and now I will know if I need any medicine or if my feeling better today will last, and it was just an odd string of sicknesses.  [As I am posting this on November 10th, while I originally handwrote it on October 31, I can happily say that, as it turns out, the latter was true, and I really was better.]  So, all-in-all, I guess it was a fruitful weekend.


In Christ,
Teopile/Theophilos Porter

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Getting Sick in Georgia (And Playing Scrabble with Non-Native Speakers)

Well, I got a bit sick in the last couple days (it's bound to happen eventually when you enter a new country), and I can say from the experience that Georgians worry far too much.  The first thing Georgians will say if you tell them you're sick is "rat'om?" ("Why?"), which, unlike in English, means "What hurts?" or "What's wrong?"  Upon any explanations (regardless of how minor your illness may be), your host family will likely get medicine and want to take you immediately to the doctor--and may not understand why you may not be so worried as to do this.  Then they will probably want to bring you certain foods or juices (not that I doubt that some of these do legitimately help), and probably also what the Georgians seem to think is a cure-all--Borjomi, a natural mineral water (which they subsequently carbonate) bottled in Georgia.  They will bring this to you while putting your feet in hot water and (if one of your symptoms is a headache) possibly tying a bandana around your head (I'm not fully sure on the why of this one--it made my head hurt more).  It's a very odd (and sometimes more than a bit trying) method compared to the drink-your-fluids-and-go-get-some-sleep method I'm used to.  Calling TLG to them them you are sick and can't go to school results in the same:  "I will call the insurance company to get your doctor's information.  When should I tell him you're coming?"  Their philosophy is "Why wait when you can see the doctor and get medicine now?"; my philosophy is generally not to take medicine, and certainly not to bother going to the hospital, unless I really need it.  A slight clash in thinking, methinks.

Well, there's not a ton to report otherwise.  I introduced Scrabble to my host sister, who seemed to really enjoy it, though it was difficult for her.  She might know certain words she has available easily, but forming them on-the-spot with random letters was more difficult.  This being the case, when she found a spot to go on her own, without any of my help, she would often jump out of her chair, arms raised triumphantly.  It was also pretty hilarious when (especially in the beginning of the game) she tried to add her letters before and after each word on the board in the hopes that from my word "pig," "tpig" or "pigq" might mean something in English.  I think in the end I won something like 330 to 120, but it didn't pahse her much.  I'm sure we will be continuing to play it relatively often.

The only other thing is that I probably will be going to Tbilisi this weekend to go to the bank and the store and so forth; and, with any luck, to Sunday Liturgy at Sameba (where the patriarch serves and a glorious cathedral in and of itself).  Until then,


In Christ,
Teopile/Theophilos Porter

Monday, October 24, 2011

Metropolitans, Monasteries, English, and a Supra

I can't follow my own advice, it seems:  another week has already flown by, and I find myself without blog entries.  Hopefully, this doesn't become too much of a norm.  Also, hopefully I will soon be up to date on posting these entries--right now, I've posted two online.  I tried to put a third up, but as one of my fellow school faculty members said today of the internet at school, "modis, midis" ("it comes, it goes").

As I mentioned would happen, on Tuesday Mama Davit took me to see the metropolitan.  What I didn't know is that we were getting up at 6:30 for a reason--our priest also serves as the priest to a relatively nearby women's monastery on Tuesday mornings (if not on other days as well) before going to teach a few classes at the seminary in Gremi.  The monastery is beautiful and relatively small--around eight monks (or nuns, as they are commonly called in the West) and novices in total.  Their choir is really, really good.  It was a truly gorgeous service.  After that, we went to the seminary at Gremi, which was an ancient town, but is now the the site of this small seminary, a small museum, an old church, and a small castle, which was the king of K'akheti's residence of old.  On a clear day, you can see about 80% of K'akheti from the top of this castle--a considerable area.

Anyway, I was able to meet the metropolitan, and together with a couple other priests and an English teacher from the nearby 1-12th grade school (where, I believe, Mama Davit also teaches) for translation, we had a nice chat in an outdoor clearing.  As some of the seminarians had a break in classes, the metropolitan took them, the few resident monks at the seminary, and me to the monastery of Nek'resi.  It's up in the mountains (way up in the mountains) and, if you can see 80% of K'akheti from Gremi, you must be able to see clear into Kartli from Nek'resi on a clear day.  It was great--they have a couple nice, small churches (i.e., a small main church and a tiny chapel), a small museum, and the room (I forget the technical name) where they house the excavated bones of righteous monks who lived there (this is a common practice in older Orthodox monasteries, and is a testament to the holy history of the monastery)--which I was able to venerate.  Sadly, because of the seminary schedule, we soon had to go back to the seminary so they could finish their classes.  Mama Davit said that if the metropolitan agrees, I can teach English at the seminary on Tuesdays.  While that would be great, I do have mixed thoughts about his complete confidence that they will be able to convince my school and the whole TLG program (i.e., the Georgian government) to amend my contract and allow this (as I do normally have three classes to teach on Wednesdays).

Anyway, after the seminary got out for the day, we went to the main church (the old one I mentioned above) before heading back to town.  It was beautiful.  The entire inside was frescoed centuries ago with saints, many of whom I knew, along with a few Georgian saints who were new to me, and with a Theotokos-with-child aspe and a Pantorcrator dome (yes, I realize these terms mean very little to most non-Orthodox;they are easy to look up if you are truly interested).  I had never before been in a church fully frescoed like that, and it was truly beautiful.

They changed the schedule at school to where this is no longer true, but on Wednesdays I didn't use to have any morning classes, so I was actually able to go to the parish's festal liturgy the following fay for their patron, Ts'minda Toma (St. Thomas the Apostle) and still go to my classes in the afternoon.  Thursday and Friday were fairly uneventful, but on Saturday, some of the other teachers (that is, from my school, not other TLG volunteers) and I went on an excursion (here's the standard word Georgians will use whenever you go anywhere--probably because of its closeness to the Georgian word of equivalent meaning--though probably slightly different usage--eksk'ursia) to a few different churches and monasteries in and near Mtskheta.  First we went to Jvari Monastery (The Monastery of the Holy Cross, "Jvari" meaning "Cross"), a small monastery overlooking the joining of the two rivers on the border of Mtskheta.  It has an octagonal base and a giant cross in the middle of the church.  In fact, this cross was erected by Ts'minda Nino and King Mirian, and the actual encompassing church was a later addition.  At the moment, it has only one monk and five novices, if my information is correct.  Next we went to Shiomghvime, a large monastery of about 25 monks.  It is also up in the mountains, and is nestled to where two or three sides of the monastery complex are surrounded by what appears to be a mesa rather than a mountain.  I say this only judging by its great similarity in appearance to the mesas surrounding Archangel Michael's Skete in New Mexico, where I spent a month earlier this year--but as I have not been to the top of the one at Shiomghvime, I could easily be wrong.  Unlike the few caves in the mesas near this skete in New Mexico, which were made of a sort of sandstone and thus relatively uninhabitable, the caves at Shiomghvime are, apparently, habitable, as in the past they have housed all of the monks of the monastery.  The church itself was large and beautiful.  It was fully frescoed, like Gremi, but was more newly done, and in a more Western style which I cannot say I was particularly enthralled with.  The iconostasis and icons in the altar, however, were in traditional Georgian style and very beautiful.  Before we left, a monk who spoke a little English took me to the well (currently in a state of restoration) in which Ts'minda Shio (One of the Assyrian Fathers) spent his last years and was buried.  An absolutely wonderful place.  After this, we went to Svet'itskhoveli and the small Ts'minda Nino's convent in Mtskheta (which I had already been to the previous Saturday on my excursion with Mama Davit and company) before going to a restaurant for a supra of food (and wine, of course) both brought and bought.  After the singing, dancing (Georgian dance is so awesome!), eating, and drinking all subsided (and our waitress came to tell us, I assume, that they were closing soon), we headed back home.

After Church on Sunday, Mama told me to come back to his house at 2:00 for something involving the metropolitan.  All I can say is, this "something" was the largest supra I've been to yet.  It was over fifty people, and took up two rooms in Mama Davit's house.  The room I was in had the metropolitan, a couple priests, the monks from the convent Mama Davit serves, the seminarians and monks from Gremi, and myself and three other laymen.  The other room was full of other laymen, mostly from right here in Ch'ik'aani.  On each table was literally a pile of plates and glasses from head to foot--to get to most of the food, you had to pick up a couple overlapping plates full of food which were placed, by necessity, directly on top of the former; my glass was buried under a plate, and in the first fifteen minutes or so after I arrived (so about the first half-hour after it started), they kept bringing out more plates, platters, and full pots of food--and so the piles got higher.  After about an hour, the metropolitan (and monastic entourage) had to leave, but that just meant the supra went from two rooms to one.  I'll just say this:  you know it's a supra when you get there at two and leave around eight, with no real break in the meal.

Well, that's been the week.  All I can say of interest about today is that they changed the schedule (so that I can teach in all the I-VI classes; before some were being taught at the same time), and that today is the first day I've actually been able to sit down and plan lessons with my co-teachers, which I think will be very helpful for especially the younger and older grades.  I-IV are all in their first year learning English (the government just this year expanded the curriculum to include English in every grade), so it's very easy to teach on-the-spot; letters and basic words aren't particularly hard.  Having a few basic games prepared for them with the co-teacher, however, should keep the larger and younger classes better contained in terms of attention and noise (I have a few classes at more than twenty students, and a few under ten, so there's real variance in this aspect).  Sixth grade is the one for which it will be especially helpful to have prepared:  though it's only their second year (at least, as I understand it), they're already in the third-year book, and reading, translating, and commenting on longer dialogues and short stories.  I'm mostly glad just to have this chance for better communication with my co-teachers.

Next weekend, I hope to go to Tbilisi to buy a few things, do a little banking (we get paid by the 30th of Every month), and hopefully attend Sunday morning services at Sameba (meaning "Trinity," this is what the Georgians generally call Holy Trinity Cathedral in Tbilisi, the giant one where the Patriarch serves, and which I mentioned having gone to in my first or second blog entry)--we'll see if this little excursion actually happens or not.  Hopefully, to avoid such a long blog entry next week, I will blog a little again before then.


In Christ,
Teopile/Theophilos Porter